Knitwear's wild renaissance: designers reimagine craft in a luxe shift
Kota Gushiken is turning heads with his 'Shirmper' shirt – a button-up that morphs into a knitted sweater halfway down. It's just one sign of a dramatic shift in the world of knitwear, fueled by a new generation of designers who are pushing boundaries and redefining luxury.
A new wave of knitwear innovation
For decades, knitwear was largely considered a functional, predictable category. But over the past ten seasons, designers like Kota Gushiken have transformed it into an expressive medium, attracting a growing clientele craving tactile, handcrafted pieces. ‘Seven years ago, if I said knitwear, people would think it was just normal knit jumpers,’ Gushiken explains. ‘But over the past 10 seasons that I’ve been doing the brand, I think our clients are now recognizing that knitwear can be super free, and people realize, oh, there’s a knitwear universe.’
The trend isn't limited to single designs. A surge of creatives, including Nong Rak, Pillings, Raquel de Carvalho, and Chet Lo, are challenging traditional notions of knitwear with unexpected colors, textures, and silhouettes. These designers are harnessing advanced knitting technology – like seamless and 3D printing – alongside traditional techniques to create complex, durable garments.
Luxury retail re-evaluates tactility
Retail analysts are observing a significant trend: consumers are actively seeking out materials and craftsmanship over logos and fleeting trends. ‘A structural shift is happening in luxury retail, as shoppers swap logos and fleeting trends for tactile, long-lasting craftsmanship,’ notes Krista Corrigan of EDITED. ‘The value in knitwear is tangible, driven by hand-knitted construction, zero-waste engineering, and high-quality fabrications.’
The numbers back it up. Full-price sellouts for sweaters and cardigans are soaring – Loro Piana saw a 40% increase in knitwear sales in 2026, while Brunello Cucinelli experienced a 23% jump. Major houses like Dior and Gucci are also reporting “strong gains” in the category, fueled by a massive demand for premium yarns like cashmere – now accounting for a third of all knitwear sales.
Beyond the basics: a focus on craft and innovation
But the rise of knitwear isn’t simply about increased demand. Designers are pushing boundaries through materials – Icelandic wool’s distinctive handle, for example – and innovative techniques. Cecile Tulkens, known for her gansey knits, is creating contemporary pieces inspired by traditional fisherman styles, retailing for a hefty £470. ‘I think it’s because it’s honest, you know? It’s hard to hide bad knitwear, you actually can’t fake it,’ she states.
Despite the opportunities, challenges remain. Rising material costs, a warming climate, and a dwindling pool of skilled knitters pose significant hurdles. But for those who can navigate these complexities and embrace innovation, the future of knitwear looks undeniably bright. As Kota Gushiken himself puts it, “You can’t fake it,” a sentiment that underscores the very essence of this exciting renaissance.