Irish couture dreams realized: clare designer’s monumental journey to paris

After fifteen years of relentless dedication and a fiercely independent path, Michael Stewart’s ‘Standing Ground’ collection will debut on the opening night of Paris Haute Couture Week, a testament to unwavering vision.

A decade-long pursuit of parisian perfection

The Clare-born designer, known for his sculptural and meticulously crafted pieces, secured a coveted spot on the couture calendar thanks to the LVMH Prize – a recognition that followed years of solitary, almost obsessive, work. Stewart’s approach, rooted in Ireland’s prehistoric standing stones, has evolved into a distinct and powerfully evocative aesthetic.

His atelier, a surprisingly intimate space tucked within London’s art and fashion hub at 180 Strand, buzzed with activity as fittings progressed. The air was thick with the scent of leather and the rhythmic clinking of tools – a scene dominated by Tallulah Harlech, his stylist, and a team of skilled artisans.

Sculpting a vision, stone by stone

“It’s all very elaborate work,” Stewart explained, observing the tightening of a corset’s laces and the placement of a sand-colored suede breastplate. “Just to achieve that level of simplicity, you need those elaborate elements to really bring it to life.” He described the collection’s inspiration, a loose reference to ancient monoliths, emphasizing that the garments themselves bear no direct resemblance to standing stones – they are, instead, emanations of a potent, imagined figure.

The painstaking process, he estimates, mirrors millennia in fashion terms, a deliberate choice driven by a desire to transcend fleeting trends. “It’s been a long journey and everything has been directed towards showing a couture from the very beginning,” he stated, navigating the complex layering of beading within a draped skirt.

A singular brand identity

‘Standing Ground’ as a brand name reflects Stewart’s deliberate isolation from the mainstream. For five years, he persisted, largely unnoticed, producing exquisitely detailed, bespoke garments – often referred to playfully as “bedroom couture” – solely for private clients. “And I did beautiful work, and the only time I did say it was couture was jokingly when I said it was like my bedroom couture. Making these really special things in my bedroom,” he recalled. “I was forced to be slow because when nothing happens for you, and nothing moves, to continue you have to have mettle, have resilience.”

Key to his success was Lulu Kennedy’s faith, securing two Fashion East shows in 2023, catapulting Stewart onto the London scene and establishing his reputation as a custom-only designer – a stance fiercely upheld.

A network of support

Since winning the Savoir-Faire award, Stewart has benefited from a supportive network, including free studio space from Trino Verkade at the Sarabande Foundation and subsidized space at Mark Wadhwa’s 180 Strand complex. His commitment to exclusive clientele – international travelers seeking unique, handcrafted pieces – remains unwavering, with client identities strictly protected. He’s deliberately eschewed publicity and social media, trusting in word-of-mouth to fuel his growth. “My clients are my best advertisements,” he asserts, a statement underscored by his deliberate silence for the past two years.

Stewart’s debut at the Irish Embassy on Monday is not merely a show; it’s the culmination of a deeply personal and remarkably singular creative vision – a testament to the power of unwavering dedication in a world saturated with fleeting trends. He’ll open his mouth, he promises, only when he has something truly compelling to say.