Schiaparelli’s ghost still dances: roseberry reinvents a surreal legacy
Daniel Roseberry isn’t simply reviving Elsa Schiaparelli; he’s conjuring her. The latest exhibition at the V&A, ‘Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art,’ unveils a dialogue between the Italian designer’s groundbreaking vision and Roseberry’s increasingly idiosyncratic approach – a collision of the past and a distinctly modern sensibility.
A bow that started it all
It begins with a deceptively simple 1927 creation: a trompe l’oeil bow sweater. The story, as Roseberry recounts, is almost mythical – a gift from Schiaparelli herself, a spark that ignited the house’s entire ethos. “Everything kind of came from this,” he explains, gesturing to the relic. “It speaks so much to her modern perspective on the woman’s wardrobe.” This wasn't just Fashion; it was a deliberate subversion, a playful dismantling of convention – a principle Roseberry continues to champion.
Echoes and innovations
But the exhibit isn’t a dusty mausoleum of the past. Roseberry deftly weaves Schiaparelli’s spirit into his own work. The ‘Apollo’ dress from spring 2022, a meticulous recreation of Schiaparelli’s embroidery techniques, felt like a direct invocation. “It was the first time something from the archives really pulled us in,” he admits, a palpable sense of reverence in his voice. Yet, the exhibition also showcases Roseberry’s own daring innovations – pieces like the kaleidoscopic ‘puzzle’ dress, a life-sized, hand-painted homage to his figure paintings, where paillettes mimic brushstrokes in a mesmerizing mosaic. It’s a testament to the brand’s commitment to pushing boundaries.
The jacket speaks volumes
Roseberry insists on one definitive element of Schiaparelli’s aesthetic: “The Schiap jacket is the thing.” These are typically sharply defined, heavily embellished, often a statement of unapologetic drama. The ‘Matador’ jacket from the fall 2021 couture collection, with its surrealist leanings and Super Bowl halftime show inspiration, immediately announced itself – a bold, almost theatrical return after the pandemic's constraints. It’s a prime example of how Roseberry interprets Schiaparelli’s legacy, not by replicating it, but by reimagining it through a distinctly contemporary lens.
A singular vision
Nnadi, British Vogue’s head of editorial content, remarked on the ‘puzzle’ dress, stating, “This is the absolute epitome of modern couture. It’s one of one. You couldn’t replicate this if you wanted to.” The exhibition isn’t just about showcasing garments; it’s about the process, the meticulous handcraftsmanship, and the unwavering commitment to a singular, audacious vision. And Roseberry, it seems, is determined to keep Schiaparelli’s ghost dancing.