Martens unveils fall 2026 collection amidst shanghai shows and canine charm
Glenn Martens, the fashion industry’s perpetually busy creative force – currently helming both Maison Margiela and Diesel – recently offered a rare glimpse behind the curtain. During Paris Fashion Week, he invited The Run-Through to Margiela’s Paris headquarters to discuss his upcoming Fall 2026 collection. The presentation coincided with a series of four exhibitions in China, each exploring a core tenet of the house’s history.
A celebration of anonymity and craft
Martens debuted both his ready-to-wear and Artisanal collections in Shanghai. These launches aligned with exhibitions across China, dedicated to Margiela’s foundational principles, from the iconic “bianchetto” motif to the philosophy of anonymity that has defined the brand for decades. “We love clothes and craftsmanship and garments,” Martens stated. “We don’t want to focus on the person wearing it.”
But the creative director revealed a surprising secret to securing the loyalty of his studio team. His border terrier, Murphy, played a pivotal role. “Everybody was smiling, the doors opened, people were screaming, playing around,” he recalled with a laugh. Murphy has since been rewarded with his own miniature lab coat.
Martens’ overarching vision remains rooted in enjoyment. “At the end of the day… that’s the reason why we started fashion: because it brings joy.” The collection itself appears to embody this sentiment, a playful yet sophisticated exploration of form and texture. The presentations in Shanghai signal a significant commitment to the Chinese market, bringing the brand's heritage to a new generation of consumers.
The exhibitions aren't simply retrospectives; they’re an invitation to understand the meticulous construction and conceptual depth that underpins the Margiela aesthetic. This focus on the garment itself, rather than the wearer, is a refreshing counterpoint to the often-celebrity-driven world of high fashion.
Murphy, the unlikely brand ambassador, embodies this ethos perfectly – a charming distraction that underscores the brand's core values. Fashion, Martens suggests, should be a source of pleasure, not just aspiration.